I'm back in Colchester, desperately trying to get all sorts of administrative things together on the net (if anyone cares, I'm killing one of my old servers, filmgen1.nfshost.com... I don't think that should effect anyone but my wallet) so I can run out to London while it's actually not pouring rain outside.
I left the Netherlands without having really met anyone but it was a good long weekend of reflection and the whatnot. Killing time in Rotterdam was a bit hard on a Sunday night. For those of you keen to the whole YouTube impostor story, the guy erased his account from YouTube so I didn't have contact info.
The Netherlands Montage, YouTube
5/27/07 Scribblings in my Moleskine from the lobby of the Westin Hotel, Rotterdam:
I was in a big city with no map and no direction. I asked myself how I got here. Why was I here even? Someone called Rotterdam, the New York of the Netherlands and immediately I started to agree as far as ethnic diversity went. The crowds were less touristy on the metro and thuggish teens looked like they wanted to mug me and maybe bust a rhyme about it afterwards. But it's a safe place. The architecture seemed modern and European, whatever that's supposed to mean.
On the advice of a couchsurfer, I checked out the cube houses of Blaak Street, the Oude Haven area, and I walked the Erasmus Bridge. After a chicken sandwich and frites, I decided to watch Pirates of the Caribbean 3 at the Pathe theater I came across. They've got ads before their films, too and there was one that killed me. It was about a sexy girl and a guy who could barely hold on to her. I have to find it. (I found it here at wefashion.com, go to the Touch Me Campaign link on the left) It's rare to find a film that seems to be something straight out of my head. The magic of the moving image.
When Pirates started I became a bit sad. There was the familiarity of being in a cozy movie theater and watching an American popcorn movie but there was also this sensation that I was so far away from home. The obvious was that there were Dutch subtitles and everyone around me conversing in Dutch (not during the film, thankfully). I don't know, I feel so disconnected. There were times when I felt disconnected from friends and people back home but now, I was physically separated from them. And I was culturally separated from those currently around me. ::sigh:: I've got 7 more hours to kill and all I want is to curl up in one of the hotel beds in this Westin.
The Netherlands is the second country where I haven't really spoken to anyone. Four days of walking with my thoughts takes a toll on my mood. I knew there would be more days like this and I'll pull through, no problem. But if I don't get some of this down on paper, I may just hit a bottle. I really can't afford the luxury of imbibing... I checked my bank account today and it's incredible how much cash Western Europe has burned. I'm really starting to worry about making it through seven more months. Holy God! Seven more months!? It feels like a jail sentence or time serving a tour of duty in my head. Days of solitude make me forget why I'm doing this.
If you've got someone close, give him or her a hug. If you know someone that has no one, call 'em or pay 'em a visit. Me, I can't be helped just yet. But worry not, I'm never alone as long as I got me.
The mark of a the immature man is that he wants to die nobly for a cause, while the mark of the mature man is that he wants to live humbly for one. - Wilhelm Stekel [Catcher in the Rye]
More Moleskine scribblings from Fashion Cafe Bar in Colchester, 5/28/07:
Sure people'll miss you when you're gone but life goes on. Unless you have some sort of strong bond or tie... whatever you want to call it. Then, when you leave, life becomes unbearable without you for an unspecified duration. You can't leave when there's that sort of relationship. If you do, it's going to be almost equally as tough on both ends. I didn't have that. And now I'm here, wanting that.
Labels: England, Netherlands, Videos
My friend Dan in England told me to look out for tasty Indonesian food while I was in Amsterdam, particularly the Rijsttafel or rice table. As soon as I got into Amsterdam from Prague, I was starving. I found a place called Restaurant Selecta listed in my I Amsterdam guide so I peeped it out. Thankfully, Paul N. helped a brother out and got the check for one of my meals which happened to be the best meal I had in Amsterdam. The traditional rijsttafel at Selecta features soup, spring roll, egg, chicken skewer, fried banana, pickled vegetables, braised beef, pork, veggies in coconut milk, green beans, tofu and veggies in peanut sauce, fried chicken, rice, and roasted coconut and peanuts. A substantial meal for one person.
Afterwards, I happened across the Heineken Brewery. I had a few bucks left over so I relaxed and enjoyed the Heineken Experience. Wish you could have been there Paul. Let me know if you're ever on this side of the planet again. I've got the next round.
Labels: Food, Netherlands, Videos
...to Haarlem Haarlem. Saturday morning I hopped a 15 minute train from Amsterdam Central to Haarlem. I've been told that my ancestors come from this beautiful little city, south of Amsterdam. The Harlem of New York gets its name from this place. Initially, the streets reminded me of Colchester in England but as I got closer to the Market Square, things looked a bit more Dutch (Canals help). The first thing I noticed was the lack of tourists. If you've grown tired of Amsterdam's tourist chaos and would like to see the quaintness of a Dutch town and the locals out and about with their families on a weekend, go to Haarlem. Around the square, there's shopping a plenty. I've told people that I won't buy anything that doesn't fit in my stomach but with four blisters on my feet, I convinced myself to pick up a pair of Italian Geox shoes. What a relief from sweaty, hot feet.
I was starving so I bought a fresh fruit salad (I can't tell you how happy fresh cut fruit makes me) and a bag of different bread rolls. I walked down random streets munching on bread and happened upon the Haarlem history museum. I spent a bit of time in there and talked to one of the guides before looking at the Amsterdam Gate (the remaining piece of the wall that was once built around the city) and a beautiful windmill. It was a very nice afternoon. The crowds started to build up so I headed back to Amsterdam for a dinner of Dutch Pancake. I read Catcher in the Rye for the rest of the evening and crashed early to give my feet a rest.
Today I'll say my goodbyes to Amsterdam and head to the "New York of Holland", Rotterdam for the night. I hope I figure out how to keep myself occupied with no hostel there.
BIG CONGRATULATIONS TO ERICA AND ANTON WHO WERE MARRIED BACK IN THE STATES! HAVE A GREAT HONEYMOON!
Labels: Netherlands
In the evening, the Red Light District is full of tourists, gawking at the girls in nothing but skimpy underwear, beckoning men as they walk by. Aggressive girls will open their glowing doors and shout at you to come have a look. One girl even grabbed me by the shirt sleeve.
After midnight, the crowds thin out and what's left are the ultra-drunk groups of men (there are pretty wasted women in the mix- Girl after taking a shot of something from a little white cup: "Wooo! Let's go! That was a good shot" She stumbles a bit. Guy friend: "Heh heh, are you okay?" with general concern for her ability to walk across the canal bridge) who walk up and down salivating. Often there's one guy who's singled out from the group who everyone else is determined to get laid. I watched as they held one guy up to a lamp post and looked him in the eye, pumping him up, trying to convince him. The guy was so drunk I don't think he could have had sex with himself. They soon gave up and he stumbled behind (apparently he was up for a live sex show but they ignored his request). The other scene is watching one guy go in for 'service' as his buddies wait outside. After about five minutes, they grow impatient and leave. If they do stick around, loud cheers erupt as their hero emerges.
After midnight, the streets also fill up with drug dealers. They flank you on both sides of the street, seemingly choosing targets. As you walk by you'll hear them whisper "cocaine", "smoke", "ecstasy", etc. Shake your head and keep walking. Late at night when there are only drunks and dealers left on the streets, you get a bit paranoid with people following you down dark alleys.
Notes: If you do decide that you need the services of a prostitute, here are the basics based on my observation and survey work. You walk the streets and find someone desirable. There are girls of all types. Skinny, fat, young, old, dark, light, fake, real. Walk right up to the door and ask for prices. For a dreamy girl that you only see in pornos, 50 Euros will get you S or F. You pay first. The woman will take you into a private room (some rooms open onto the street so a privacy curtain will be pulled closed) and take care of you. There is usually no touching. If you want to touch, it's another 50 Euros and then you're welcome to do what you like. (Hygiene: They provide protection, a sink, and paper towels. But the surfaces used for the transaction are not changed afterwards. A handy towel is placed on the bed and helpful black lights may be used to spot, spots.)
Labels: Netherlands
No, I haven't been drunk or high in Amsterdam but it seems like everyone else is, all day long. From 10am smokes fills coffee shops to 2am booze and horniness fill groups of men. I just realized that this is the second blog today, though it is 2am and I've just returned from the Red Light District. Before we get to that, a recap of the evening...
I went for a canal boat ride which was pretty chill. It was nice to see a canal's point of view zig-zagging around the city. As I looked at the buildings along the canal, I kept wondering why there are hooks at the top of many of them. Anyone know? I'm thinking it was for some sort of pulley system? Or maybe to hang flowers?
Next was the Van Gogh museum. Also very chill as DJ Goldfinger was spinning beats as museum visitors explored Vincent's life in paintings. I daydreamed about having the life of an artist and being able to leave behind pieces of the world through my eyes.
Then dinner. I thought about Dutch pancakes but it was a little too late so I headed over towards the Red Light District in search of cheap eats. The cheap eats were mostly junk food so I popped into a place called Eat Mode featuring 'Asian Fusion'. Gyoza and Chicken Chow Mein it is. I thought about seeking out some nightlife so I hopped a tram to Rembrantplein which is a major square filled with bars and French style cafes. It was a bit dead so I went to Leidseplein (plein means square btw). On the tram I actually watched a team of two pickpockets trying to rob an Indian couple. It was wild. One guy positioned himself to the left and reached for the man's bag by going under his jacket (so it looked like he was reaching into his own coat, he may have even had a whole in the other side). His partner acted as a lookout and a cover. They kept glancing back at me but I pretended to be in a stoned haze or something. I was really trying to figure out what the heck I was going to do. Do I rat them out and get stabbed? Do I bring it to the couple's attention? Fortunately, the Indian man felt his backpack being unzipped and reached around to close it. This all happened as I was getting off at Leidseplein so I don't know what the pickpockets did. In hindsight, I should have said something as I got off but I was in sort of a mental haze.
The square was pretty jumpin' but I strolled around a bit and decided that I couldn't really make any moves solo so I went back to the hostel. I realized that there will be certain things that I can't really do without the appropriate 'partners in crime'. My hostel room (did I mention there are 19 beds in it?) was taken over by a dozen rowdy Spaniards from Barcelona. After they left to go out, I washed up and decided to see why one shouldn't visit the RLD after midnight.
I'll let you know tomorrow.
Labels: Netherlands
I've had a bit of a heavy day so far viewing photos of conflict and suffering from around the world. First was the Foam gallery where there was a fantastic exhibition of photo journalist/activist James Nachtwey. His coverage of Rwanda, Afghanistan, Bosnia, Iraq, Romania, Somalia, and Chechnya got me thinking hard about my purpose in life. When you start to become aware of things that happen outside of your own little world, you wonder what you can do to well, do your part. I'm standing there staring at photos of atrocities against humankind and I'm thinking- I'm a single, healthy, somewhat educated man who has the opportunity to do just about anything. What AM I going to do?
Have some frites of course. While I was eating my fries, I saw these two girls that I'd seen yesterday writing bikes. I was standing outside of the Rijksmuseum and this lovely girl with short black hair, big sunglasses, and short jean shorts rolled by, head scarf blowing in the wind. It was dreamy. A cute blond followed behind. Later in the evening, I saw them again, walking through the red light district. Once again, I had nothing to say. And today, as I on some church steps munching away, there they were again! In least creepy way I could, I followed them. But alas, they weren't going where I was going...
If Nachtwey's photos weren't enough, I headed to the World Press Photo exhibition at Oude Kerk. These photos won top prizes in photojournalism and featured coverage of world events, sports, and nature. My brain was full. So I've headed back to the hostel to read some Catcher in the Rye.
I want to be a lover AND a fighter.
Labels: Netherlands
I went for a walk through the Red Light District in Amsterdam. It was pretty fascinating. Streets and alleys of windows that glowed. Inside small rooms women of all types and sizes winked at you, tapped on the glass to grab your attention, or just talked on their cell phones. Completely legal. I admit, a couple caught my attention but I never thought of 'love' being a financial transaction.
Throughout the day, I also kept smelling something familiar. Ah, yes, marijuana. Also legally sold in 'coffee shops'. You just go in, ask for a menu, and pick your poison. Papers and pipes provided. As you pass these joints (heh) you're treated to doorways wafting smoke out onto the streets.
Amsterdam is similar to Prague in that it's a haven for people who want to party (I watched a girl puke her guts out on the sidewalk and another guy passed out in a doorway with the biggest smile on his face). For a lonesome dude from Cali, it wasn't of much interest other than for anthropological studies. Research ma, research!
Today, more museums!
Labels: Netherlands
I met a mother and son staying in my room last night in Prague and we had a great dinner together where I had duck and a taste of boar meat. Thanks again, Melissa! We had some fantastic conversation about the journey of life. We took a stroll through the Old Town Square and I turned in relatively early so I could wake up at 4:30am to catch my flight to Amsterdam.
The homeless shelter, I mean, hostel I'm staying at is right near the central station and other than the free internet, that's where the positive ends with this place. The good thing is, I got myself and I Amsterdam card and I've been out on the streets hitting museums, restaurants (this time sponsored by Paul N.!), and a brewery.
I don't have much time to blog in the hallway of this hostel but I do have to comment that my visit to the Anne Frank House was especially emotional this morning after the Auschwitz visit earlier this week. A girl, a talented writer... losing her life for no reason. It killed me to read quotes on the wall and see where she and her family hid for so long. And to die a month before the liberation, I couldn't breath in there. There is some justice in her dream of having a book published coming true posthumously.
I headed to the Rijksmuseum after lunch but got completely sidetracked when I came across the Heineken Brewery. I must say, it was a pretty fun experience and lightened up the day a bit.
This Heineken link may take you to a video greeting, I have no idea.
Eventually, I escaped the brainwash and free beer and made it to see some lovely Rembrandt and Vermeer paintings. I think it's nap time and then maybe a canal boat ride or some strolling around town. I hope to make it to Haarlem this weekend and Rotterdam Sunday evening where I'll fly back to London.
Labels: Czech Republic, Netherlands
